4 interviews & Public Declaration in Kolda!

The past weekend was one of the highlights of my field study so far and I will never forget this ceremony in my life. I went to a village in the Kolda region (southern part of Senegal) to attend a Public Declaration. More than 2000 people came together, from 550 different villages, to declare that they will abandon FGM/C and forced marriage in their communities. 

On Saturday morning I woke up at 5am and I took a sept-place to Kolda. Kolda is located in the soutern part of Senegal, about 400 km from Dakar. The roads are quite bad and it took me 10 hours to get there. Nevertheless, it as such a nice ride (Senegal is sooooooooo beautiful!). We took the road through Gambia and we crossed the Gambian river. The southern part of Senegal is very green, there are many trees and beautiful birds. It really looks like paradise and I wondered why there are no tourists here. I enjoyed driving through the small villages with the typical round mud huts with a thatched roof, the colorful clothes, the women preparing food while the sun was setting. Life was so simple here, but at the same time so beautiful. This was Africa and I felt so incredibly grateful that I am able to do my research here. 

Taking a sept-place at the garage in Dakar! 

The sept-place from the inside.

Pitt stop in Gambia.

Crossing the river in Gambia.

The road I traveled this weekend.

I arrived Saturday night in Kolda and I stayed in the same hotel as the UNICEF staff. When I was checking in, I met Moussa Diop (the communications officer of UNICEF) and afterwards we had dinner together in Kolda. He took me to a Djibouterie where we ate a chicken from the barbecue. 

The next day we left early in the morning to the village where the Public Declaration was going to take place. I joined UNICEF and the Senegalese national television crew to the village. I was impressed: the declaration would be broadcasted at the national TV!

Ready to go!

Moussa Diop (UNICEF) and me.

It was a two-hour drive from Kolda to arrive in the village in the department Medina Yoro Foulah. Since I travelled with UNICEF and the RTS crew, I was all of a sudden part of the 'official delegation' and I was treated like a princes and placed on the front row next to the UNICEF staff and the representatives of the government, haha. ;-) 

The next hours were really amazing and I observed all what was happening. The ceremony started with a prayer of the Imam, which is very special if you know that many people perform FGM/C in Senegal because they think it is a religious obligation. Afterwards, there were many speeches, for example from the mayer of this department, a representative of the communities, the Family Ministry, UNICEF, the representative of the regional department, TOSTAN, the medical chef of the region, etc. I was afraid that the ceremony would be in Pulaar or Soninké (the tribal languages in this area) and that that the ceremony would be a nice experience, but that I wouldn't be able to understand what they were saying. However, I was happy to find out that all speeches were in French, so I could easily understand everything. :-)

Speech of the head of the department.

Speech of UNICEF.

I realized that everything I read in reports in the past two years, was actually happening in front of me. It felt so lucky to experience all this. During this speeches, they were all referring to human rights. Up to this weekend, I found it hard to believe that people in these remote villages, who did not go to school, who can hardly read or write, talk about human rights. But it was true, it was really happening! I could see it with my own eyes! They spoke about the right to health and the right to physical integrity.

The banner of the first picture says: The communities reaffirm their commitment for the promotion of the right to health of girls and women and the banner on the second picture says: Preserve the physical integrity of our daughters. After two hours, the declaration was read out officially. I learned later that it was not only this ceremony, but the declaration was an official document, signed by all important people in the region. 

The moment when the declaration was read out.

In between the speeches and official statements, there was also enough time for music, dance and animation folklorique during the ceremony.

I also made a short movie to give you an impression of the atmosphere during the ceremony, that you can find below. The representative of the Economic, Social and Environment Council gave his speech during this short movie. 

Yesterday I traveled back to Dakar. This time not with the sept-place, but the people from the Orchid Project (an NGO based in the UK) were so nice to offer me a ride back. It was so comfortable: a Toyota Landcruiser with airco, instead of a sept-place!! Hihi, lucky me! ;-) 

Last week I also conducted 4 interviews with people working for the Justice Ministry, UNICEF, the Senegalese Association of Female Lawyers and Save the Children. They all provided me with a lot of information and every time I left their offices I had a big smile on my face. All the interviews are so interesting and they really make me think about my research topic in such a different way!! :-) 

Today I am working at the Embassy again and I have planned several interviews this week, including one interview with Molly Melching (the founder of Tostan). I am very excited to meet her and I can't wait to hear her answers to my questions! 

After all, time is flying. I am already half way my field study!! Two months to go before I will go home.  

I keep you updated! 

Lots of love,

Annemarie

Tamkharit & Reggae Concert!

The past week was quite a surprising week. I had many appointments planned, so I expected this week to be very fruitful. However, after all, no interview did take place this week... I was a little bit disappointed, because I called so many people (I used disproportionally many pre-paid telephone cards this week), I e-mailed so many people, but in the end no one was available this week and the appointments that I had were cancelled. It took a lot of energy, with no clear results yet, but I think it is the plight of a reseacher... It cannot always go as smoothly as the weeks before. Nevertheless, I think (and hope) to have many interviews next week and the week after. Apart from working many hours this week (and be a little bit frustrated from time to time), I also had a lot of fun! 

On Monday afternoon I went with Marieke (a Dutch girl who works for an NGO here in Dakar) to the tailor. A few weeks ago we bought some nice fabrics at the market and now it was time to make some nice dresses! On Monday the tailor took our sizes and made some nice drawings of the dresses that we had in mind and on Saturday morning we could pick them up! We were both very satisfied. It is amazing what this tailor could make! 

Measuring our sizes. 

My dress is almost finished!

On Wednesday night we celebrated Tamkharit (the Muslim celebration for the New Year). The mother of Bijou did not go to work on Wednesday, but she was cooking all day instead. There is a traditional dish served in Senegal for this holiday, called Thiéré. It is Senegalese couscous served with a tomato sauce, vegetables and meat. People eat as much as possible, untill they cannot eat any more. After the meal, all the children (but also many adults) go out to celebrate and play on their home-made drums (mostly tin cans and sometimes just a plastic container is sufficient). This celebration is not the same like other traditions. It was quite funny to see - especially realizing that I am in a Muslim country - that men were dressed like women and women like men. The children go from house to house to do a small performance and to collect money. They sing a traditional song when they are in the house and the man says "tajaboon” the woman replies "waley” and they say good wishes to each other. Again, a nice experience! :-)

Preparing the food.

Making the tomato sauce with meat.

Ready to cook the couscous! 

The traditional dish for New Year's Eve: Thiéré

On Thursday night there was again a ceremony at the family of Bijou. Although Bijou and Bocar were married a couple of weeks ago, Bijou still lived in the house of her mother and not with Bocar, because she wanted to finish her university study first. However, Thursday night was the 'big day' from which Bijou and Bocar would officially live togheter. It was a night with many traditions and protocols and again, so special to be part of it. She was wearing a nice dress and her hands were decorated with henna. When she entered the house of Bocar, she had a cloth over her head, fastened like a turban. She was sitting like this, in silence, for more than an hour. The Imam prayed and she received many presents (that she of course couldn't see): from pots and pans to a blender and cutlery. Afterwards, all the women brought her upstairs to the bedroom of Bocar where he was waiting for his bride. All the ladies started to become very excited and yelled and screamed in the bedroom. It was so funny. ;-)  

Bijou with a cloth over her head.

Giving presents to Bijou.

On Friday I worked in the afternoon at the French Institute. There is such a nice atmosphere at the Institute and I am a big fan of their delicious cappuccino's. ;-) At the Institute, I wrote a letter to the Prime Minister (Aminata Touré), because a friend-of-a-friend of the mother of Bijou knows her very well and is willing to ask her if she would be available for an interview with me. That is very excited of course!! I hope it will all work out! She was previously the Minister of Justice and worked for many years for the UNFPA in New York. It would be very valuable for my research to talk to her!

Typing a letter to the Prime Minister of Senegal.

On Saturday I went with Jessica (a Dutch girl who works in Dakar as a teacher at the Dutch School) to the beach at N'Gor. We met each other during a night out in the city center of Dakar and we decided that we should meet again! After a week of hard work, it was nice to relax and enjoy a cold Flag bear on the beach. :-) 

Beach at the Island of N'Gor

Enjoying a beer at Saturday afternoon

Saturday night we went together to a reggae concert of Filentre at the French Institut. It was so much fun, we really enjoyed it! Most of the songs were in French, but occasionally he also sang in English. The band was Senegalese, which I found fantastic. I'm especially a fan of the percussion! It is so nice to see how the musicians blend in with the music!

Filentre 

Such a nice atmosphere!

There were also 2 special guests, they were awesome!

Today I transcribed an interview and I had lunch with the mother of Bijou. Thanks to my interns, I am up-to-date up to now with all the transcriptions, with which I am so happy!! I hope we can continue this till the beginning of February, that would be great!!! 

We'll see what this week will bring. I hope it's gonna be a fruitful one!

I keep you updated. 

Warm regards,

Annemarie 

Enjoying 10 days vacation with Erik!

The past 10 days were really amazing. To be honest, it felt like our second honeymoon! ;-) It was so nice to be together again, after almost 6 weeks! I missed Erik so much and I was so happy to be able to give him a big welcome-in-Senegal-hug when I picked him up from the airport!

The first day we went to my favorite beach in Dakar, at the island of N'Gor. For 500 CFA (less than 1 euro) you can take a traditional boat to this little Island, where you can find a quiet, clean and beautiful sandy beaches. It was a nice way to start our vacation. 

Enjoying the Senegalese 'autumn' - 29 degrees!

In the weekend, we explored the nightlife in Dakar. We started the night with a nice cocktail at a bar called Charly's and afterwards we went to Koulgraoul and danced till early morning on the African beats. 

We also visited Lac Rose in the weekend, that is named like this for its pink waters, caused by an algae in the water that produce a red pigment that uses sunlight to create more energy, turning the waters pink. However, this beautiful color can only be enjoyed when the light is right (mostly in dry season when the sun is high). Although the rain season is over, were not lucky and the lake had just a normal color. Nevertheless, it was very pretty, such a nice atmosphere in the village next to the lake. We also learned that the lake has a small salt collecting industry and that it was often the finishing point of the Dakar Rally. 

Welcome at Lac Rose!

Entrance to Lac Rose

Such a nice atmosphere!

The lake is not pink, but still very beautiful.

The small salt collecting industry.

Monday morning I conducted one interview and that was the last thing I did for work during our vacation. Erik slept out and I went to the city center of Dakar to conduct a very interesting interview with a young man who developed education courses for primary and secondary schools about FGM/C, in collaboration with the UNFPA. He was so enthusiastic the topic and my research, that I returned with a big smile on my face in my apartment. 

In the afternoon we visited the beautiful Gorée Island (3 km off the coast of Dakar). This Island is known as the location of the House of Slaves (Maison des Esclaves), that shows the horrors of the slave trade throughout the Atlantic world. It is a museum that opened in 1962 to memorialize the final exit point of the slaves from Africa. There are no roads and no cars on this island, just narrow alleyways with colored traditional houses and ancient buildings. The island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Arriving with the ferry at Gorée Island.

The beach at Gorée Island.

Entrance of Maison des Esclaves.

A place to remember the human toll of African slavery...

The room where children were kept.

Nice art at Gorée Island. 

Beautiful colored houses.

Pelicans chillin' in the shadow.

After a few days in Dakar, it was time to make a short trip to the Thiès and Fatick region. Tuesday morning, we took a sept-place (a 1980s-model Peugeot 505 with seven seats) to Djifer. We traveled down the coast to the Sine Saloum Delta, close to the border with Gambia. From there, we took a boat to the Dionewar Island where our hotel was located. It was 'only' 160 km from Dakar to Djiffer, but it took us more than 4 hours. We had a lot of fun and enjoyed the ride. The way was beautiful, we passed tiny villages, lots of boab trees and beautiful birds. It felt good to 'escape' Dakar's chaos and to go to the nature for a couple of days. 

On our way to Djifer. 

Just love Africa!

The rather bumpy road from Joal to Palmarin. :-)

Colorful pirogues (traditional boats) at Djifer.

Cleaning the fish.

The beach of Djifer

When we arrived at our hotel, two cocktails were waiting for us. We booked a cottage with sea view and indeed, the view was amazing!! Because it is not high season, there were not many guests and some days we had the swimming pool just for ourselves! We stayed here for four days and I enjoyed every minute. In the first place, I really enjoyed the shower. There was again no water in Dakar (Erik had the 'real' Dakar experience and also washed himself with a bucket of water) and it felt so good to take a real shower! I washed my hair and for a moment it felt like I was at 'winnaarseiland' (for the ones who also watch Expeditie Robinson). In the second place, I enjoyed doing nothing. No research, no e-mail, no telephone calls! :-) And last but not least - I enjoyed being together with the love of my life! 

The following days we relaxed at the swimming pool, read a book and we just did nothing. I really had to force myself not to take the Senegalese National Action Plan on FGM/C or an Annual Report of the Joint Programme or NGO with me, haha. It was good to take some distance from my research for a couple of days. Instead, I read the book 'I am Malala', a must-read!! Erik bought it for me at the airport, it is a book about a girl from the Swat Valley in Pakistan who fought for her right to education. 

Every morning we woke up with this view.

The beach of the Dionewar Island. 

Reading my book @ Dionewar beach. :-)

The swimming pool!

Reading my book with a stunning view!

The swimming pool (and Erik in the back).

One afternoon, we also made a trip to discover the Sine Saloum. It is a river delta formed by the confluence of two rivers: the Sine and the Saloum. Because it flows so slowly, this delta allows saltwater to travel deep inland. We went with a few other guests of the hotel in a beautiful painted pirogue (traditional boat) and a guide into the labyrinthine waterways. We saw many mangrove swamps, sand islands, beautiful birds and even a group of dolphins! It was an amazing trip, with a beautiful sunset when we turned back to the hotel... 

Our pirogue

Enjoying the boat trip!

The mangrove swamps.

Pelicans. 

We went out of the boat to watch the pelicans a bit closer.

Dolphins! 

Enjoying the sunset.

The sunset the next day was even more amazing. Erik is playing football in the back with the Senegalese youth of Dionewar Island.

Of course we felt sad to leave this little paradise at this romantic Island, but on Friday we had to head back to Dakar. Our sept-place driver was waiting for us at Djifer and within 4 hours we were back in Dakar. On Saturday we went to an art gallery (the Senegalese are very creative people!) and afterwards to the tourist market at Soumbedioune. We bought a nice painting for our house in Tilburg and some presents for friends. In the night we had dinner with Bijou, she made a delicious Senegalese dish. Yesterday was our last day together. In the morning we packed Erik's backpack, we had lunch with Bijou's family and in the afternoon we went for a drink to the beach of N'Gor. And around 8pm it was time to kiss each other goodbye... It was not easy... 

However, in 6 weeks we'll be together again and we both need to go back to work. This morning I started working on my research again. I e-mailed more than 15 persons to invite them for an interview and so did Bijou. This afternoon I will transcribe an interview I conducted the week before Erik came. Tomorrow I will work at the Embassy again, so I think I will go back to my daily routine before I realize. My goal is to have 35 interviews done before before X-Mass, so there is a lot of work to do! :-) 

I keep you updated!

Lots of love from Dakar,

Annemarie